10 days to explore the maximum of Spiti valley on your bike.

Hello everyone!!

This is Prabhat Singh, welcomes you to my second blog after more than a year. But i can assure you don’t regret after going through this little journey. Here i’m sharing my experiences, my views and my journey, with that i tried my best to help you all to make the most out of your plan for none other than “The Amazing Spiti Valley”. I will be very grateful to listen from you and improve my work. Please share your thoughts, query, suggestions or anything you want to share after reading the blog.

It’s been a difficult last year for all of us in so many ways but, we have to stay strong, stay together and sometimes even when you feel weak, tired, fed up, there’s always strength within you, just keep travelling and keep discovering your strength.

Let’s start with the most important part of this trip and that’s your BIKE. The very first thing you should take care of is your bike, your only true companion.

1. Your bike should be well serviced before the trip. {engine oil, oil filter, air filter, suspensions, clutch plate & chain set (if needed)}
2. Bike phone charger and phone stand are also important. You definitely gonna need them at some point of time.
3. Tires of your bike should be in good condition (one puncture can ruin your entire itinerary)
4. Well focused LED fog lights.
5. Good battery condition of your bike.
6. Wiring conditions.
7. Carrier’s joints must be checked.
8. Keep an extra clutch wire for the journey.

Now As your bike is ready, you are halfway there.

I checked all the above points for my RE Thunderbird 350. In addition to these, basic need for your bike trip is your riding gears and here are some important ones you can’t ignore like “Riding Jacket, Gloves (normal and woollen), Knee guards, riding shoes and last but not the least a good helmet”. I prefer the SMK Glide modular helmet because I can’t afford to limit my views through the helmet in that beautiful valley.

Tip: Keep your luggage as minimum as possible because it’s your bike who will bear that load, not you.

So, we planned the trip for 10 days i.e from 6th to 15th of July and we were a group of 6 bikes (5 RE Thunderbirds 350 and 1 RE Classic 350) and 9 members, having 3 solo riders and 3 riders with a pillion.

Now talking about route, there are two options for completing the Spiti circuit-

1. You can go from Chandigarh to Shimla and enter the spiti valley via Narkanda, Rekong peo, Nako and after completing the circuit come back via Manali, Kullu, Mandi….
2. You can do inverse of the same.

Shimla has always been the first preference to complete the Spiti circuit by any means of transportation and for bikers it’s the best to be opted.

Day-1 (Delhi to Narkanda)

So finally, the day has arrived that we were waiting for such a long time. As per our plan, we had to leave our houses early by 4:30 AM and reach the meeting point (Sarai kale khan bus stand) before 6 in the morning, but that didn’t happened as usual and we were so late that we left our home at 7:00 and started our journey from Sarai kale khan bus stand at around 8:00 AM. We were already 2 hours behind of our scheduled plan and its significance will come to our face when it becomes dark.

Anyways, we started our journey from Sarai kale khan without any further delay. We had not even crossed the Delhi border yet and we got to know that Karan had lost his phone somewhere in between. But we were not that surprised, he does what he does best..lol. But ya, every good trip demands a sacrifice and Karan did his share. We took our first stop at Muruthal, had a quick breakfast while talking about how to keep your phones safe during the ride and not to ruin trip if that happen. We continued and reached Solan, HP at 5:00 PM with 2 or 3 tiny (15-20 mins) breaks in between. The biggest challenge in that ride was plains all around and that roasting temperature. Keep drinking throughout to keep your body hydrated.

Route opted: Delhi-Chandigarh-solan-Kandaghat-Chail-Kufri-Matiana. 
Total distance covered: 450 KMs.
Total riding hours: 15 hrs.

Day-2 (Narkanda to Chitkul)

We all woke up early with this view except one of our mates, Mr. Saurabh Khanduri. The laziest member of our group but still has a paramount importance <(oo)>.

Without any delay, we starts loading our Guns and had a quick breakfast (not quick for everyone o_0) and finally left the place by 10:00 AM. Our route was from Matiana to Chitkul via Zuri and Sangla. The moment we started from Matiana the views gets more enchanting with lush green valley and rocky mountains. Subsequently, we joined the Sutlej river till the Karcham Dam, from where the Sangla-Chitkul road has been diverted and with that off-roading starts as well. Here, we were again 1-2 hrs behind of our scheduled plan due to some bike issue before Karcham.

In route, we came across the huge and beautiful Baspa Reservoir followed by some amazing sights that will settle down in your memories forever.

Suggestion: Try not to get late on this route because this upcoming ride was so damn beautiful that you don’t wanna miss a little.

Have a look…

We can’t resist ourselves for long and before dusk, we stopped by a beautiful location that we can only imagine in this real world and this is how it looks in pictures.

Unfortunately, we only had 1 hr to spend there before dusk. We continued from there with all headlights and fog lights on and finally reached Chitkul by 8:30 PM. We had already booked Zostel for 9 beds and it was really a cool place to kill a night (Highly Recommended).

Route opted: Narkanda-Zuri-Sangla-Chitkul
Total distance covered: 180 KMs
Total riding hours: 10 hrs (Approx)
Zostel tariff: 500 Rs per bed (Excluding meal)

We had covered less distance than 1st day but we got equally exhausted due to road conditions. The ride was both challenging and beautiful at the same time, what else do you need as a rider on the very second day of your journey \m/.

The night was not over yet, as we all gathered together under the stars with an Old Monk and a Magic Moments. We cheered for the ride and for that very magic moment, followed by the dinner.

No, it’s still not over yet. Before sleep, 5 of us had a music session in a common area of Zostel with Anmol on a guitar and rest of us joined him with songs, enjoying a dream night. And then, that unforgettable night comes to an end with that amazing 1 hr of session. We fall into a deep sleep to see the next wonderful day and the beautiful place Chitkul.

Day-3 (Chitkul to Kalpa)

The 3rd-day ride was from Chitkul to Kalpa which is about 60 km, so we had enough time to laze around after 2 tiring days. We woke up at around 7:00 and witnessed a very peaceful and beautiful morning, enjoyed along with some tea, coffee and stuff.

Checkout time of Zostel is 11, so we packed our luggage and get our bikes loaded again. We checked out Zostel before time and went to a nearby café for breakfast. After that LAZY breakfast we went to a random location near the Baspa River bank, which was quite a green and blissful place to hangout for some time.

We left the place at around 1:00 PM and moved ahead to our next destination “Kalpa”. You have to go down to the same route to reach Karcham Dam which is about 40kms and then 20kms from there to reach Kalpa via Rekong Peo. While returning, that nasty off-roading cost us our precious handmade crushing bowl (made up of coconut shell) owned by Anmol. That bowl was close to everyone’s heart, after all, it was a handmade crushing bowl. But, we can’t afford much time searching for that so we moved on and reached Kalpa on time at 5:30 PM as per we planned….for the first time.

Route opted: Chitkul-Sangla-Rekong Peo-Kalpa
Total distance covered: 60 KMs
Total riding hours: 4 and 1/2 hrs (Approx)

There we searched for the camping site and found Hotel Rakpa Regency, where we got the perfect space for our 4 camping tents. The rent was nominal as we assure them to order food from there only. After unloading bikes we started setting up our tents.

The night was getting colder as we cheered our ride with “Jim Beam” this time before dinner in our party tent (8 person tent). In the meanwhile, we all freshen up one by one in the only washrooms given to us. Then we all had dinner together in the dining area and get back to our respective tents and straightway, fall into the arms of Morpheus.

Day-4 (Kalpa to Tabo)

We greeted another morning with tea and stuff. You can see the beautiful snow-capped Kinnaur Kailash range from there. Also, the huge sacred Shivling Rock on the Mount Kailash is visible from this location. But most of the time clouds keeps the peak covered so consider yourself lucky if you get to see the Rock. This is how it looks in the picture.

Now as we have to cover a long distance on 4th day, we started packing our tents and luggage which was a hell of a work and we were running out of time as we already decide to breakfast in Rekong Peo. Without any delay we started loading our baggages on our bikes.

After a quick wrapping, Karan took his bike to a nearby mechanic for some welding work in his carrier. Meanwhile, others were involved with their packing, me and Anmol left early to check the Suicide point which was around 3KMs from the hotel. The Suicide point was nothing but a dangerous cliff with a dangerous vertical trench known for many Suicidal activities in the past.

After taking some pictures we regrouped with rest of the members in Rekong Peo for the breakfast. You can purchase the needful from the market and also fill up your fuel tanks there. With a group of 9-10 members, time management is the most important part of a trip and we mostly fails in this part. Being late we left Rekong Peo at around 1:00 PM and reach Khab Sangam, the confluence of the Sutlej river and Spiti river before Nako Village via Horang Valley. En route, the whole valley was of barren Rocky Mountains with handprints like impression on them, very different and beautiful. You can see the Reo Purgyil Peak (highest alpine peak of the Himachal state) from the Khab bridge.

Tip: On every bike trip, time management is the key to make it a successful one and it’s only possible by starting your day early.

We were again behind schedule to reach Nako Village due to several road blockages. But as we stepped into, we felt the positivity in the air, such a beautiful and peaceful piece of land. A village built around a beautiful small lake in the middle, streets and houses built with stones and woods, surrounded by the mountains all around. We spent little but quality time around the lake, had lunch in the nearby cafe and moved on.

Post Nako, we met the dreaded Malling Nalla, first of our trip that can cause some trouble.  Afterwards, we entered the Spiti valley from Sumdo at 6:00 PM. There was a police post in Sumdo, we all submitted the details of ourselves and our bikes before entering the Spiti valley. On moving a little further we went off route towards Gue village to visit the 500-year-old mummy. Gue village is about 12 km from Sumdo having 10 Kms of proper off-roading adjacent to a blackwater river throughout. No route could be more haunting than this one after 7:00 pm. We reached gue at 7:30, saw the 500 years old Mummy and left the village at around 8:00 pm.

Tabo was 35-40 Kms from Gue and the sun was already down. But we continued to ride that haunted section and reached Tabo at around 9:30 PM. There are several options, you can find a good homestay according to your budget. We searched and got one at reasonable rates.

Route opted: Kalpa-RekongPeo-Nako-Sumdo-Gue-Tabo
Total distance covered: 170 KMs
Total riding hours: 11 and 1/2 hrs (Approx)

After we all freshen up, holding to our custom we cheered together remembering the big day and awesome ride we had (especially the scary one). The perk of homestays are their home made food and we got it in our rooms even at that time. After having dinner we captured our beds and slept enchanted about the next adventure.

Day-5 (Tabo to Mud Village-Pin valley)

We started packing early and managed to left the place at sharp 9:00 AM. Next to visit Tabo Monastery, the oldest monastery in Spiti surrounded by barren mountains, built-in 996 A.D. There are beautiful wall paintings inside, that are more than 1000-year-old made with natural colors. The monastery is a testimony to the innate beauty and heritage of the Buddhist culture. Cameras and phones are strictly prohibited inside the monastery, so there is nothing to show from the inside.

Tip: Try your best not to untie your luggage from your bike every time you stay by keeping your needful belongings in a separate bag. This can save your precious time on the next day.

After experiencing the spiritual and pleasing environment we went to one of the nearby café for the breakfast. At around 11:30 AM we left the village and headed towards the next village Dhankar, known for Dhankar Monastery and sacred Dhankar lake. We took 1 hr to cover that 30 kms distance from Tabo to Dhankar . The ride was again beautiful, barren mountains all around and river on our left. Dhankar Monastery is situated at the top of a cliff overlooking the gorgeous settlement. You have to ride uphill through a zig-zag road ended up right there at Monastery and from there another 2 km trek to reach Dhankar Lake.

Hereinafter, we parked our bikes to the last point near monastery and drop our luggage in a neighbouring café, where we refilled our water bottles and left in no time to start the trek.

We started the trek at around 1:30 PM in a scorching day. After 1 hr of trek when we felt a bit exhausted, we asked a female group returning from the top about their experience and without a second thought they called it their worst, it’s worthless because the lake was dry. And from there we started losing our confidence to move forward. But our heart didn’t allowed us to take a single step back. After half an hour we enquired another man coming down, and guess what, we got the same reviews again. But we keep moving forward and just before the lake we came across a group of foreigners and we got some courage after hearing them reviewing the place very peaceful and a must-visit. At last, we reached there and appreciate ourselves for our decision. Although the major part of the lake was dry at that particular time, but the environment all around was very peaceful and full of bliss. The Holy lake was surrounded by high barren rocky mountains. For an hour or two we sat at the bank and enjoyed every bit of a moment by just keeping ourselves quiet and listened to the natures quietness. It’s impossible to find that peace in today’s hectic lifestyle. On the flip side we were still trying to understand what those people were expecting with this kind of holy isolated place (Maybe something like food stalls, boating…..God knows!!).

We started moving down, after some unwanted elements entered the site and started harassing the peace. It took us only 30-35 mins to reach down the hill and went straight to the monastery.

Now Dhankar monastery is again an ultimate example of ancient Buddhist architecture and a perfect place for all peace seekers. There is a cave deep inside the monastery where anyone in search of peace and harmony can sit and meditate in a pin-drop silence environment. We contemplate for a while and get back to the café where we kept our luggage. Before leaving we filled our abdomen with some fast food there as we missed the lunch, then got the bikes ready and left the village at around 6:00 PM.

Our next destination was Mud Village and its about 50 kms from Dhankar. We started our ride following those eye catching views, which leads to a point where the road diverted towards Pin Valley, while going straight leads to Kaza. As we traversed the Pin valley Gate, we entered the Pin Valley and from there it’s another 30 Kms off-road to reach Mud via Kungri and Sangam Village. Hereafter, we rode that 30 Kms off-road under the stars to reach one of the remotest villages of Pin Valley, Mud village – a green patch of land among those deserted mountains. We reached at around 9:00 PM and stayed there in Pin-Parvati homestay.

Route opted: Tabo-Dhankar-Mud(Pin Valley)
Total distance covered: 80 KMs
Total riding hours: 4 hrs (Approx)

 As we all were hungry, reason being skipped lunch earlier, first we had dinner there. The food was amazing. To be frank, at that time, that place, with that fragility, there is nothing more luxurious than eating fresh and hot food. Lastly, we went to bed immediately after the most exhausting day of our journey so far.

Day-6 (Mud to Kibber via Kaza)

The morning of Mud was more beautiful and pleasing than we imagined. Without sparing a second, i grab my cup of tea, sits on the roof and keep admiring the innate beauty of the valley. But eventually, i laid my hand on my heart and explained myself and started preparing to leave. We went to Tara homestay café next for breakfast[excellent food], which was just few minutes walk away from our homestay.

Post breakfast, we get back to the same route to reach Kaza. After crossing the spiti river we turned left and from there kaza is 30kms. Before Kaza we witnessed these unprecedented terrain on our right and greenery along with Spiti river on the other side. This beautiful landscape demands spare attention which cost us 15 odd minutes more to finally reach kaza.

Kaza is the largest township in Spiti Valley, known as the headquarter of Spiti. This beautiful city is located on the bank of the spiti river, surrounded by huge barren mountains from all directions. Its geography, history, culture, religion everything together forms such an aura that will struck you for sure. Being centrally located, it’s a good base to explore the nearbys. Day trip to Dhankar, Langza, Hikkim, Komic, Ki, Kibber can be done staying here. Adding to it, a good shopping market, nice homestays and most importantly a rare fuel station can make your stay more beneficial. You can refill your bike tanks, get mechanic if you need and welding shop also (most of us needed this). There are amazing cafés as well, and we pick Himalayan Café for lunch. It’s relaxing, food was amazing, excellent service, a must visit in Kaza if you are a “food nerd”.

We hated ourselves for a moment that we didn’t planned to stay in Kaza for a single night. But we had other plans, sticking to it we managed to leave at around 5:00 PM after having a great lunch, also refilled and repaired our bikes.

Now, Kibber is around 20 km from Kaza via Ki, but we left Ki for the next day as we have to return on the same route to cover Hikkim, Komic, Langza.

We reached Kibber in 1 hr, unloaded our bikes and kept luggage on the field and steered for Tashigang without any delay. Keeping in mind, bikes should be completely offloaded before starting the ride due to high altitude off road conditions.

Tashigang is a beautiful tiny village having only 6 families, almost 10 kms from Kibber at an altitude of 4650m. The route was extremely raw, having only dirt tracks that leads to the end of that motorable road. In between we tried some shortcuts out of nowhere and on top of that those loose gravels sets the difficulty level much higher than expected. But that’s what we all were looking for -“challenges”. As time passes the temperature getting down rapidly, therefore we stopped at a location somewhere before the village.

The views were majestic, open ground and gigantic snow capped golden mountains standing tall in front of us (amazing scenes).

The whole environment seemed unreal and was holding us to spend more time there. But unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time as we all started shivering.

As we all get on our bikes, I somehow remembered that for last 4 days i was carrying a half Old Monk bottle in my tank bag. Our expressions after seeing that bottle makes that one of the best moment of our trip. We all gathered around and made a circle and rotates one bottle’s cap per person round the circle. Our whole body felt a different energy at that moment and got the courage to face that insidious cold wind.

As the sun goes down we returned to Kibber in moon light and started setting our tents under the phone’s flashlights. There is an open green field with a hand pump and washroom facility on the cliff, which comes under Gov. jurisdiction, you can set up your tent there by paying only Gov. charges but the strong blowing wind makes your task more difficult and exhausting. For food, you must deal with the nearby cafés and that too with in their time limits.

Route opted: Mud-Kaza-Kibber-Tashigang-Kibber
Total distance covered: 90 KMs
Total riding hours: 4 and 1/2 hrs (Approx)

After having a lamp dinner, we get back to our tents and switched off the day with a perfect sleep.

Day-7 (Kibber-Komic)